I will guide you through the process of building a 2 inch thick concrete coffee table that will polish with water to give it a nice smooth and smooth finish and then I will show you the process of integration of a metallic design or done here The state of Montana’s contours, where I live now, many of the techniques used in today’s project can actually be used to build concrete meters. If that’s something you’re looking for then let’s go ahead and start with today’s project. The first step in making a concrete table is to build the mold mark for your dimensions and use a straight edge. To trace the lines to follow, cut the piece of melamine ¾ \thick at the waist using a circular saw or table saw once the base of the saw has been cut. I cut a manageable size of melamine to make the sidewalls added for a two inch thick concrete top, you want to cut the strips to 2 and ¾ inches in width to compensate for the base piece of the mold used. A miter saw to cut the side walls to length you can find all the measurements used in today’s project in DIY free plans, stand out, chop the concrete table with inlay and then start. Attach the side walls to the base piece on a flat level. The surface is always pre-drilled to prevent the wood from cracking. Make sure the screw is straight and level so that it ends in the middle of the base. The room then works. Your path around the four sides uses a carpenter’s square to make sure all the corners are squared and that the side walls are 90 degrees from the base room. Then we will prepare the reinforcement that will help strengthen the table, use a bolt cutter to cut the mesh to the waist. There should be about an inch between the perimeter of the mesh and the sidewall in several of my other videos, where the concrete roofs are an inch and a half or thinner. I will only use steel trellises, but for thicker projects like this 2-inch thick top, I’m going to add some 3/8 inches. Rebar cut the rebar with the reciprocating motion, saw, then attach the rebar to each corner and to the mesh using a reinforcement thread once the reinforcement is added, go ahead and fold the mesh if necessary so that it is possible. Now let’s move on to creating a design for the metal that will be embedded in the concrete. I used a vinyl cutter to create a stencil of the outline of the condition in which I live, which is Montana now if you need stencils or vinyl decals for DIY projects, I highly recommend checking the society. mountains. Quiet, slash, DIY vinyl, it will put you everything you need.
I applied the stencil traced around the design of the stainless steel and then began plasma cutting. If you do not have access to a plasma cutter. I recommend finding a company in your area that could cut your design on a CNC plasma cutting machine. My plasma cutter is one of my favorite tools in the shop and this Hobart 250 CI works great and is certainly one of my best tools. Investments Take time by following the lines of your chart and use both hands to help you stay steady. Always use the recommended safety protection when working with cutting equipment. After cutting, you will have slag and rough edges on the metal, I like to use a flat disc on a grinder to clean these edges, and there are many ways to finish the metal. But I used an orbital sander with sandpaper 120 and 220 to remove scratches from these surfaces and give it an aniseed look. I then kneaded the back of the design with a grinder to help the before placing the metal design in the mold, you must make sure that it is a pleasant and clean use, a step back to get rid of debris and a little alcohol and ‘a clean rag. Then, apply a small amount of silicone on the front of it, use a razor blade to spread evenly and super-sinned. The silicone is strong enough to hold the design in place during casting, but it will easily detach from the melamine and remain in the concrete once the project is removed from the mold and seal the edges and corners with 100% silicone. This will also give a slight bevel to the top edges of the concrete. I used a beveled tool to round the silicone cord and still have plenty of paper towels to clean up any excess. Another way to do this is to use tape on each side of the seam, then run your index finger over the seam to create the rounded edge. It’s a good method too. It just takes a little longer to save everything. Allow the silicone to cure for at least a few hours once the silicone is hardened. You can start mixing the concrete. I used a mixture of 5,000 pounds per square inch of material that cost about $ 5 wholesale, and I wanted to blacken the color of the concrete to get a darker gray color, so I mixed coal pigment into the water. According to the instructions, you can make concrete, whatever color you want, have fun and put your creativity on your table. I mixed this batch of concrete with the consistency of an oatmeal and then transferred it into the mold. Fill the mold with about half a piece of concrete, wear rubber, gloves and spread the concrete around the mold. and your fingers To push it into the edges and corners throughout the process, be sure to vibrate the concrete to minimize air pockets and voids in the finished surface, then add the reinforcement making sure to place it on the existing concrete. bags of concrete that you will notice, this lot is a bit clearer, and that’s because I thought I had extra bottles of pigment hanging out in the garage. But I was a little short and it ended well to mix and I managed to darken a little the sides of the mold but morally. The story ensures that you have enough color so that all the concrete fills the mold until it is full, then use a straight ruler to level the concrete and move it back and forth in a saw motion and fill in the low points.
If necessary, remix the concrete to extract as much air as possible from the concrete. Shaking the work surface helps a lot and all the time spent vibrating. Concrete will be worth it. Like finishing, the surfaces will have fewer voids to fill and will look great. Better to use a rubber mallet to tap the mold on the side and bottom walls, and once done, you can prove the concrete a bit with a trowel, then cover with plastic to help the concrete to harden evenly. Now that the casting is over, take the time to clean up your work space and tools that way, you will be able to use everything for your next concrete project. Allow the concrete to cure for a few days before removing the concrete from the mold, maintaining the cure time that will vary depending on the type of mix used and the temperature and humidity. For levels, remove the screws, then remove one side at a time. You can use a flat screwdriver or chisel to help you lift the sidewalls and always force yourself against the wood and never against the concrete. Your way around the four sides, then use a sanding block to soften the edges of the concrete. This will help keep the edges and corners out of the way during the finishing process, be prepared to return the concrete by regularly spacing two to four for the concrete to be adjusted and use old rags to protect concrete from concrete. shredding. When he comes back, it’s a good idea to have some help with this process because the concrete is heavy, slow, and keeps melamine away from the concrete to reveal your table for the first time. I do not have too many pockets of air or empty It was really a diamond in the rough, and now we will take the time to polish to fill the gaps and seal the concrete I like to start by smoothing the bottom.
I particularly recommend getting around the edges or perimeter where someone could run their fingers. Having a smooth surface on the lower edges will give the project a real professional feel. I usually start with a polishing pad of 200 grains and go up to 400 for the bottom. Once the bottom is finished, rotate the concrete upwards and begin to polish. I started with a grain of 800, because I did not want to expose the aggregates that are rocks and sand in the concrete. clean the area. Above and you may need to use rubbing alcohol and a scotch pad or razor blade to remove any silicone residue. If you want to expose an aggregate, you can start with a lower buffer. I prefer to use 50 to 400 grit buffers as grinding and higher buffers as polishing since you do not remove a lot of material. For example, with a 800 grit pad, the concrete polishing tool can be connected to a pipe or pipe. mine For a pump, water sprays the center of polishing pads to keep them cool. Now, if you intend to do a lot of concrete projects or make meters, I recommend trying to get a wet polisher that I will link in the description below. But if you just want to try some projects, you can use an orbital sander similar to the way I did the concrete dining table project that I will mention as well. Take your time to polish the sides, edges and top surface and work in small sections. At a time. The polishing process will open the voids and pits in the concrete surface and fill the voids by creating a mud mixture that consists of optional cement water and acrylic pigment. Fortifying aims at the consistency of toothpaste, then fills the voids with the paste. The mixture will disappear considerably as it drives. Usually you want the grout to be as close as possible to the concrete, but I used contrasting colors to give it a unique look, fill the holes in the best possible way and remove the excess with your hands or knife in plastic. mastic. So, you do not need to spend more time polishing a pile of hardened excess. Slurry you want the manure harden for a few hours. Then come back and do a final polishing. I used a 800 grit pad to do the final polishing and this will remove the sludge residue. He will polish the concrete and give the project a professional finish. Then let the stamped concrete litchfield nh dry a little with a cloth and polish the metal inlay. If necessary, I used an orbital sander to shine before sealing the first surface seal, the underside. With some layers of concrete sealer. I used a water based acrylic, the concrete putty that I will link in the description, the sealer dries quite quickly. It is not necessary to wait too long between the layers once dry, to put the concrete in place, to quickly clean the surface, then to apply the sealant with a clean micro fiber cloth. I did about six weeks on the High.
I dilute the first two layers of about a portion of the water for a portion of the sealant after I lightly dilute each layer and the last two layers are done. The complete force ends with the last layer, then moves on to building a base for the table. I built the base of a 4×4 two by four and plywood, but feel free to modify your table base. However, as if I had made a lot of metal and they looked really cool, but for this specific project, I wanted this space to remain real, simple and affordable. So, everything is made of pine. After making all the cuts arrange the boards on a flat work surface, all dimensions used to build the base can be found at DIY, store, Quiet, a concrete front table with an inlay, a pocket hole pattern for an inch and a half, punch two pocket holes on the ends of each board, then place the pocket hole template for the ¾ inch stock and drill pocket holes around this perimeter of the plywood, which will be the shelf lower. Once all the pocket holes were drilled sand the wood, so it is nice and smooth before assembling it next, we will attach you to the boards at the corner feet, using wood glue and two and a half inch pocket screws align each board and the insert slowly. I attached four outer panels before adding the two center supports evenly spaced the center brackets, then wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth, then measure two and a half inches at the end of each leg and draw a line, then tie each two by the oven, which will help form the bottom shelf. I use Jack forceps as a set of extra hands for this project to help keep the boards at the correct height while attaching them and a longer set of bar clamps or pliers can be helpful for this project. In addition, to hold the board in place during assembly, I cut the spacers of a 2×4 scrap board to keep the bottom shelf at the correct height. Then I tied the shelf on the other side. Using screws, you will need to make sure the plywood is flush with the shelf and base and apply a stain or paint of your choice.